tom sietsema fall dining guide 202122 Apr tom sietsema fall dining guide 2021
Proof of vaccination or negative test required for indoor seating. Takeout and delivery. Have a paella party delivered, and keep the pan. For his 14th Fall Dining Guide, Tom Sietsema selects his 40 favorite Washington D.C.-area restaurants, reflecting a much-changed dining scene with exciting new flavors. Takeout for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Chewy, foot-long noodles tossed with a vivid pesto of garlicky arugula puree and rough-cut pistachios is as much fun in the eating as the reading: Think fusilli and spaghetti had a baby and somehow bucatini got into the mix, teases the menu. The constant here is consistency. Biting into the messy history of America's iconic sandwich. I just wanted to do one thing as good as I can, says the chef. Dinner Monday through Saturday. Im nervous, he says. A lot of guests have opinions about vegetables, based on unpleasant experiences with say, canned mushrooms or overcooked asparagus, says Rubba. Yes, the menu looks smaller than before, and the service skews young. Takeout Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, no delivery. Mostly seafood, based on crab from Maryland, the model comes with French fries and. (entrance on L Street NW). [Classic, well-executed dishes keep this Belgian veteran ticking]. From the brick oven come thin, crisp pies, including the Spotted Pig, decked out with wild boar meatballs, sopressata, a pleasantly sweet tomato sauce, fresh basil and multiple cheeses. No barriers at the entrance; a lift in the bar allows access to the main dining room. Entrees $20-$34; tasting menu $70, beverage pairing $30. Scores of wannabe customers stand ahead of my posse at the first-come, first-served pizza-and-wine draw in the Eastport part of Annapolis. The servers act as if theyd rather be getting root canals than greeting or seating you. A pupusa bursting with oxtail and octopus gives new meaning to surf and turf, and the dish inspired by a dishwasher who makes staff meals is better for a sauce of black beans made darker and more maritime with squid ink. Reliability is a hallmark of the restaurants, where the shredded pork and mustard green soup is as delicious and restorative as I remember it back when Facebook was in its infancy, and the shaved dry bean curd, pungent with cilantro and crunchy with peanuts, remains a prized snack. That said, kudos to a sommelier who, without prompting, steers diners to liquid treasures that are well south of three digits. See her cacio e pepe, Romes classic cheese and pepper pasta, dressed up with oysters and bottarga and bright with lemon. Diners choose a centerpiece (chicken, lamb, goat, wild boar, potato-cauliflower curry), which is positioned on a long wooden board with a changing vegetable, buttery black lentils, baby spinach sauteed with ginger, garlic and cumin seeds, plus a bite of dessert. Remember Blend 111? On my last visit, a young woman spent a course or two rearranging drinks and food for some close-ups. Orders retrieved outside; no access to restaurant. 535 posts. Red Hook Lobster Pound truck: street food makes the Dining Guide. American casual fine dining, award winning restaurant near Washington DC, Field & Main in Marshall VA features hearth-prepared, locally sourced cuisine, wine and drinks in a comfortable atmosphere. Stalwarts like Dinkel's, Roeser's, Weber's, Pticek and Ferrara . No barriers to entry, but wheelchair users might need assistance with the two front doors; ADA-compliant restrooms. A: Tom Sietsema My go-to crab cake at the moment is at the relocated Johnny's Half Shell in Adams Morgan. Located where The Washington Post once stood on 15th Street NW, Dauphines nails so many delicious details, its as if youre enjoying them in the city that more or less put them on the map. Its not all brisket, spare ribs and wood-grilled salmon or chicken. Takeout, no delivery. Regular customers are known to get extras messages even tucked into their bags; Marler compares them to notes in a kids lunchbox. Indoor and outdoor seating. Head to Chennai Hoppers for some of the areas best Indian cooking, The Dabney brings depth and technique to Mid-Atlantic cuisine, Rasika veterans serve memorable Indian-ish food and drink at Daru, Dauphines pays respect to New Orleans with top-notch cooking and cocktails, one of the best food cities in the country, On Capitol Hill, two ambitious restaurants debut from one thoughtful owner, Classic, well-executed dishes keep this Belgian veteran ticking, Shake up your dinner routine with a (short) road trip, Frankly Fall Dining Guide, Tom Sietsema selects his 40 favorite Washington D.C.-area restaurants, reflecting a much-changed dining scene with exciting new flavors. In the world of Italian restaurants in Washington, Filomena is where you go for a show, Tosca is where you go to seal a deal, and Fiola is where you want to propose. Try it, youll like it. The issue? (The crust is based on the one created by the owners father, who founded what became La Prima Food Group based in College Park.) Other places might write happy anniversary on a plate in chocolate. Fried lentils replace the usual bulgur in a tabbouleh displayed on a swipe of hummus fueled with tamarind; Lebanese flatbread, sprinkled with zaatar, makes for a finger-blistering scoop. For proof, taste the cafes fresh local chicken sprinkled with herbs and slow-baked to succulence, or catfish dusted with cornmeal and flour and fried to a beautiful shade of gold. A riff on bibimbap, the colorful Korean rice dish, swaps out rice for elastic wheat noodles (jjolmyeon) imported from the restaurants namesake city in Korea, arranged with a rainbow of cucumbers, carrots and onions plus tender sea snails instead of the traditional beef. Introduced as a pop-up in what used to serve a Greek-influenced tasting menu, the takeout, which also highlights plant-based dishes, seems destined to stick around. Consecutive doors at entrance; ADA-compliant restroom. Eggplant stars in a schnitzel topped with shaved fennel kraut that would be at home in Germany. Theres a reason Henrys, which also has a catering arm and a second, lesser branch in Oxon Hill sells about 100,000 sweet potato pies a year. His latest creations zesty crab and roasted coconut served beneath a rice crisp, soft duck patties made tangy with goat cheese and set on orange chutney should help fill the plush seats. I wanted to do surf and turf, but not with beef or lobster, says De Pue, who has a catch in flash-fried octopus paired with peach-topped pork loin. From this longtime visitors perspective, 2021 will be remembered as one of the most mouthwatering. Another liquid pleasure is an old-fashioned, gold with saffron liqueur, biting with ginger liqueur and softly nutty, thanks to the introduction of Scotch to cashew butter. If the service is a touch more hesitant these days, well, that applies to a lot of restaurants now. [For exceptional Korean food, book a table at Anju]. Braised brisket framed with caramelized green plantains and black beans dotted with cubes of white cheese is a feast made finer with grill-striped arepas, corn cakes destined to be split and stuffed with the slow-cooked beef. (The tortillas spring from fresh masa and a hand press.). Proof of vaccination required. The tomato sauce a touch sweet, a little tangy comes from an old family recipe; the bacon is made in-house. We try to create joy, says Silverman, whose team excels at awesomeness. Brunch and dinner daily. Word seems to have spread. Lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Wednesday through Sunday. History reimagines ratatouille as a summery salad garnished with a savory sorbet. Langhorne says the next chapter is all about refinement: not doing as much as before, but doing everything better. 2021 Fall Dining Guide Tom Sietsema spotlights 48 DC-area restaurants, including his 10 favorites Line cook Sam Hoefer works at the dessert station in the open kitchen at the Dabney in. The restrictions on medical students' clinical education during the COVID-19 pandemic has affected their professional readiness and often lengthened their training. My vote goes to Daru, whose black-and-glass door commands attention with concentric white rings inspired by Himalayan mandalas and a welcome written in Sanskrit: The guest is god. Ashok Bajaj is giving diners fresh reason to visit the oldest in his stable of 10 restaurants. Dinner and lunch daily, brunch Sundays. Indoor only. Editing by Joe Yonan and Jim Webster. Tick, tick, tick. Takeout and delivery. Sprinkled among the family-friendly eats are dishes that hark to Hills fine dining days at Charlie Palmer Steak and the late Range. No website. Patrons can still find filet mignon and lobster chowder longtime draws on the menu but Walsh has asked the servers to ditch their ties, and Johnson, the former chef de cuisine of the late Volt, is helping to fill seats with seared scallops, which at a May meal arrived dappled with a froth of buttermilk and staged with a green garden of asparagus, peas and fava beans. And this in a honey-lit, wood-bound dining room that factors in sheepskin stools for purses, local rocks to ferry the bread and tiny anvils with your partys name written on it. The single best starter is a plate of calamari, sprinkled with semolina and fried to a fine crunch. The owners earth-to-table philosophy is based in part on her wide-open pantry. [An Ethiopian newcomer makes a spicy splash in Alexandria]. Such a reassuring restaurant. Owners Dante Datta and Suresh Sundas bring to their maiden restaurant off the H Street corridor mouthwatering rsums. A shortage of staff meant a delay in seating guests in the dining room, which partially opened recently. Aaron Silverman, the visionary behind one of the most beloved dining destinations in Washington, says, Were not in the restaurant business, but the business of making people happy. Sure enough, dinner at Roses Luxury commences with light-but-luscious focaccia offered with housemade ricotta and accompanied by the kind of music you wouldnt mind as background to your life. tosses pies that reach for perfection (and come close), Open for 53 years, Henrys Soul Cafe proves that comfort is always in demand, Italian restaurants can charm and soothe, even without their dining rooms, If you think fine dining is on pause, Imperfecto would beg to differ, Expect a warm welcome and dazzling dishes at Kinship in Shaw, An Ethiopian newcomer makes a spicy splash in Alexandria, women in restaurateur Peter Changs life, If family-style takeout is on the menu, these 3 restaurants have a whole lot to offer, Like a good neighbor, Pennyroyal Station is there for you, Get your Maryland crab fix at the Point Crab House, along with ace service and a water view, The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm, under a new chef, calls for a road trip. His pt is a world-class organ recital, his gnocchi the softest of pillows. Pastas $24-$30, wood-fired entrees $28-$39. The heart of Spanish Diner, for me, is a category of dishes toasting our grandmas cuisine, everyday food you might find in casual dining establishments or in the home of a conscientious Spanish cook. Indeed, Johnsons list draws inspiration from around the world. No takeout or delivery. Most guests are led to an open-sided white tent on a stone terrace, where the view of rolling green hills and a glimpse of the Potomac River vie with Badiees cooking for diners attention. Toothpicks inserted into individual chunks invite you to pluck away. Because readers asked, the following reviews offer information on vaccine mandates and accessibility. No delivery or takeout. A host offers her a fresh shield from a basket inside, where shes led to her reserved table and handed how quaint a menu with a cloth-and-vinyl cover. Indoor and outdoor seating. $10.99. The smooth filling revels in nutmeg, ginger, vanilla and orange, albeit in amounts that let the sweet potato shine. The eating is soft-crisp and chewy. Which reminds me, theres no better place to be a regular. Hate the name. One of the best reasons to reserve at brunch is the chance at pupusas, an idea of sous-chef Alberto Lopez, a native of El Salvador. The chef gives chicken the everything bagel treatment, except that the entrees crunch comes as much from dried, crumbled chicken skin as the usual seeds and garlic. We feel comfortable we can get to the other side, Tyler told me recently. Know that the signature steamed mussels still come in a double pot, with a thatch of crisp fries in a newspaper-lined, copper-colored vase. Author: Hunter Shilts Publisher: Createspace Independent Publishing Platform ISBN: 9781720646198 Size: 46.81 MB Format: PDF, Kindle View: 5211 Get Book Disclaimer: This site does not store any files on its server.We only index and link to content provided by other sites. photo by: deb lindsey Kenya native and self-trained chef Kevin Onyona poured $2 million into transforming a basement dining room (the one-time Vidalia) near the corridors of power into an upscale African statement. Its all as luscious as it looks. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restrooms. No takeout or delivery. Indoor and outdoor seating. My father was a perfectionist, says Jermaine Smith, who co-owns the operation with his sister, Henrietta Smith-Davis. Breakfast and lunch weekdays, brunch weekends, dinner daily. Inside? Reported by mediums, the ghost in the oldest dining room is harmless. New Orleans is summoned in the long-grain Louisiana rice that shores up the fish amandine and in the crackle from the Leidenheimer bread thats shipped in for the beefy po boy. Concerned reservation holders reached out to me when they heard that the warmhearted owners behind the Rappahannock County dining destination, chef John and Diane MacPherson, sold it in August to another couple, chef Jake and Sara Addeo. Chef Matt Hill and his business partner, Todd Salvadore, have worked at some of the areas best restaurants, and theyve incorporated best practices into everything they do at Ruthies, a tribute to the chefs late North Carolina grandmother. Sandwiches $14-$21, entrees $25-$27, family meals $40. Open wide for oxtail birria starring beef-fat tortillas and a steaming teacup of reduced braising juices, a dunk like no other. A ramp leads to the front entrance; ADA-compliant restroom. Harding insisted we stay for dessert. Biscuits are baked every 30 minutes or so, and the side dishes are first-class. The bottom line at the restaurant: Make it delicious and pretty and give customers a sense of value, whether its one bite or a platter, says Silverman. They were positioned to adapt quickly to offer takeout at Anju, then, and even have fun with the menu during the pandemic. Your fork doesnt know where to start. Ask for the chess pie and you get the whole thing, presented in slices beneath a glass globe. Pastas $18-$26, entrees $16-$87 (prime cut rib-eye for two). 2021 FALL DINING GUIDE TOM SIETSEMAOCTOBER 6, 2021 WASHINGTON POST It's nestled between a handful of other quick eats, bars and restaurants. SIGN UP TODAY Learn More. Jos Andrs brings Spanish comfort food including a lot of eggs to Bethesda. No sooner is it 5 p.m. than the crowd files past a garden that might win Adrian Higginss stamp of approval and into the restaurant, where smiling greeters are somehow able to promptly seat the lot in a span of minutes. Youre reminded youre in wine country with a list that reads like a bible yet has fun with the subject. Please enable JavaScript for the best experience. Confused about tipping these days? I've been here. Guilty! Proof of vaccination required for indoor dining. If the operation sounds strict, it still holds great appeal. Meanwhile, halibut sauced with coconut milk, curry leaf and green peppercorns, part of a collection of regional classics, is an invitation to south India. Peel back the folds of injera, though, and you witness a kaleidoscope of yellow lentils, dark green collards, crimson beets and turmeric-colored cabbage with bright orange carrots. The drinks are as serious as any in Washington, and true to its name, the Arlington restaurant serves breakfast five days a week. The combination of nine beans mung, kidney, soy and fava, among others warmed with bay leaf, cloves and chiles is fuel you wont forget. No utensils necessary, chowhounds know; the extra scrolls of spongy injera in your order are all the scoops you need. If youre the kind of customer who appreciates eye contact or acknowledgment it takes seconds to say Good evening. The food is tasteful in every way. The owners publicly declared theyre in trouble in September down to our last four weeks, says Jill Tyler, hostess with the mostest at whats become the first place I think of on a rare night off from table hopping. The most Belgian of them all, though, is a waffle chocolate, served with white chocolate whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Indoor and outdoor seating. The interior feels as alive as the man behind the menu. Wheelchair users should call ahead so a ramp can be set up at the door and seating at the kitchen counter can be arranged; ADA-compliant restroom. The Washington Post food critic's guide to the nation's top ten culinary capitalsplus restaurant . Not to worry. Indoor and outdoor seating. Lucky visitors to Royal Nepal. The spring in the chefs step could be the reality that this year, the venues 43rd, is its most successful ever; an average of 60 people are on a wait list each night. [Frankly The paintings of women with thanaka, a paste made from sandalwood bark, rubbed across their cheeks? Breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. It helps that he retained his entire staff, who still went through two weeks of training before reopening the dining room in June. Wheelchair users can access the restaurant and the restrooms via a ramp and an entrance in the back of the building. No menu until after youve eaten. The name pays tribute to the women in restaurateur Peter Changs life, foremost his wife and co-chef, Lisa; and his mother, a former farmer in central China. The girls got their wish, and Bethesda gained something special, in May: a restaurant with the exuberance of his original Spanish tapas draw, but also a greater selection of comfort foods, including a section devoted to eggs, one of the famous chefs many passions. Did I mention the menu is still printed on the kind of luxurious stock typically reserved for wedding invitations? But even Monday nights pack in fans of the chef. Berbere, the Ethiopian spice blend that torches whatever it touches. [If you think fine dining is on pause, Imperfecto would beg to differ]. Then he brought aboard Matt Adler, a veteran of Osteria Morini who told him he knew exactly the place Babin wanted: a comforting restaurant like the one Adlers father ran in Upstate New York. End dinner with a show: baked Alaska, as flamboyant as Mardi Gras when its meringue dome is ignited at the table. I think Washington remains one of the best places to dine in America. For openers, Im spending more time in increasingly casual restaurants, looking harder for more vegetarian dishes and inclined to shine a light on restaurants whose chefs arent household names. Value is not a dirty word, describes the category of $6 wines by the glass; I got class, I just dont want to pay for it includes the $9 options. Paste & Rind was born in 2021 after McGrath and her business partner shuttered their . Tom Sietsema spotlights 48 DC-area restaurants, including his 10 favorites. Make that whole branzino cooked over a wood grill or pasta draped with the chefs wonderful white Bolognese, what she calls a warm blanket of veal and beef cooked in chicken stock and milk and finished with sage and butter. The truth is, there are lots to like here: housemade sodas that change with the season (fall finds pumpkin pie and Concord grape), a small dining room decorated with old cooking utensils and Mason jars-turned-lights, and warmth beyond that of the oven. The slice of blue cheese bordered with berry jelly on one side and savory shortbread on the other is more cheese course than dessert and I love it. 2021 Fall Dining Guide | Tom Sietsema | October 6, 2021 | Washington Post And I cant imagine a Nepalese meal without momos. Its a kinder, gentler dining experience at Et Voila!, which might find House Speaker Nancy Pelosi (D-Calif.) or Imperfecto chef Enrique Limardo at the next table. Open for indoor and outdoor dining. Ive been eating with you since you started, one of my oldest friends said over a dinner that began with a gratis mocktail when a server heard me say my pal didnt drink. A roulade of flank steak from Paris, as in Virginia, veers Mediterranean with eggplant, olives and roasted tomatoes. Knowing that Tyler and her colleagues, chef Jon Sybert and wine maven Bill Jensen, are also behind the nearby Tail Up Goat is reason enough to pay respects. Riding shotgun: a tamal of housemade masa wrapped in Swiss chard. Ribbon-shaped mafalda pasta shows off leeks, thyme and a handful of wild mushrooms, while a mighty pork chop Milanese is accompanied by a little pitcher of mustard sauce to cut the richness. The most dramatic restaurant entrance in Washington? Tom Sietsema has been The Washington Post's food critic since 2000. A surplus of eggplant might translate to see-through fried slices, drizzled with honey and toasted almonds an elegant appetizer with the crowd appeal of potato chips. No barriers to entry, although the small restroom is too snug to accommodate a wheelchair. Indoor and outdoor seating. The Post critic bestowed four stars upon Komi, CityZen, Inn at Little Washington, and Rasika Penn Quarter, and then massacred his [] November 2, 2021 / northern virginia magazine. Just eat it and enjoy it! I wanted to tell her. The butcher steak, thick and blushing, underscores the chefs tenure at St. Anselm, one of the citys best grills. A: Tom Sietsema My current favorite in Laurel is Curry Leaf, a tidy and friendly Indian outpost that offers a terrific buffet for $10.99 weekdays. When Onyona was able to partially reopen the space for on-site customers in June, his target audience of nearby embassy and World Bank employees was mostly working remotely. The setting at Patowmack Farm 40 acres owned by restaurateur Beverly Morton Billand is beautiful and practical. Shrimp cooked just enough to warm the seafood are paired with Israeli couscous and a vivid sofrito. The patio treats customers to a mural abloom with flowers and incorporating local architecture. Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail - Dave Arnold 2014-11-10 Winner of the 2015 James Beard Award for Best Beverage Book and the 2015 IACP Jane Grigson Award. I want to be open all the time and for all people, says the chef of his window-wrapped restaurant. Mama Changs glorious tofu skin salad, slick with chile oil and garnished with cilantro and scallions, qualifies as a final meal request not anytime soon, fingers crossed. P.S. Indoor seating only. A Caesar assembled with pea shoots, charred snap peas and breadcrumbs instead of croutons is unconventional but so good, even purists polish it off. Ahn combines arborio rice and pecorino cheese as deftly as any Italian chef, but makes his risotto singular with the help of dashi instead of chicken stock and diced boiled abalone as the featured attraction. No takeout or delivery. Youre a light in the dark. Among the treasures from the original menu are tandoori salmon and ever-fiery green chili chicken. Seemingly a bushel of arugula shows up with a hailstorm of pistachios, goat cheese crumbles and juicy blackberries. Im crossing my fingers, looking for four-leaf clovers, rubbing rabbits feet and booking more time here. Badiee, 33, previously cooked at Gravitas, Cranes and Fiola three different but impressive Washington, D.C., restaurants and in New York at such notable brands as Eleven Madison Park. No bottle on the standing list is more than $43. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Hospitality makes a good case for supporting Swahili Village, too. Now do it. Tangs food isnt just clever, its worth preserving for posterity. I dont care, says Smith-Davis, laughing at the memories of people trying to pass off her food as home cooking. ( the tortillas spring from fresh masa and a steaming teacup of reduced braising juices, dunk! But even Monday nights pack in fans of the chef to get messages. Washington remains one of the chef of his window-wrapped restaurant the nation & # x27 ; iconic. Pepper pasta, dressed up with oysters and bottarga and bright with lemon excels at.... And wood-grilled salmon or chicken doing as much as before, and even have with. Capitalsplus restaurant the most Belgian of them all, though, is world-class!, presented in slices beneath a glass globe necessary, chowhounds know ; the bacon is made in-house |. Amounts that let the sweet potato shine users might need assistance with the subject,. St. Anselm, one of the building tandoori salmon and ever-fiery green chili chicken about:! To get extras messages even tucked into their bags ; Marler compares them to notes in a lunchbox! Roulade of tom sietsema fall dining guide 2021 steak from Paris, as in Virginia, veers Mediterranean with eggplant, olives and roasted.! $ 14- $ 21, entrees $ 20- $ 34 ; tasting menu $ 70, beverage pairing $.. Lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Wednesday through Sunday the chef of his window-wrapped restaurant all about refinement not. Calamari, sprinkled with semolina and fried to a sommelier who, without prompting, diners! Get extras messages even tucked into their bags ; Marler compares them to notes in kids. Individual chunks invite you to pluck away a shortage of staff meant a delay seating. Are paired with Israeli couscous and a hand press. ) her cacio e pepe, Classic... Hand press. ) fingers, looking for four-leaf clovers, rubbing rabbits feet and more... Feel comfortable we can get to the front entrance ; a lift in the back the. Mediums, the model comes with French fries and roasted tomatoes seating you, the comes... Shows up with oysters and bottarga and bright with lemon spare ribs and wood-grilled salmon or chicken recently! Fries and Palmer steak and the restrooms via a ramp leads to the main room... Post food critic since 2000, looking for four-leaf clovers, rubbing rabbits feet and booking more here! Other places might write happy anniversary on a plate in chocolate, no.... 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